Writer’s Be aware: This text was co-written by Megan Catherine Rose and Rei Saionji

Development employee by day, princess by night time, Aisha (he/him) brings a vibrant and artistic presence to the lolita style scene. On this interview, we communicate to Aisya, a lolita, editor of the journal Lapin Labyrinth and guitarist of Strawberry QuartzAisya is nicely acknowledged on-line for his commentary on lolitas as an area for creativity and inclusion, and for his efforts to present lolitas of all backgrounds the chance to take part in print media and images.

Aisya is a part of a subset of lolitas who discover class and glamour, with extravagant clothes, ruffles and assertion hairpieces that we carefully affiliate with designer BABY the STARS SHINE BRIGHT. BABY is closely influenced by shoujo manga aesthetics, and so collective practitioners co-construct expressions and worlds that embody a princess way of life. Lapin Labyrinthe is among the collective retailers to domesticate this type of girlish aesthetic, and seems as an iteration of many lolitas in all their variety.

With the launch of his band, Strawberry Quartz, Aisya brings collectively each his curiosity in style subcultures and music. He has been joined through the years by others who’ve experimented with lolita and idol music, and has just lately began performing with Bonjour Suzuki and Rin Rin Doll. Certainly one of their members, Solely Eirihas additionally had a solo profession, combining her love of anime and gaming with lolita style. After I attended Strawberry Quartz’s debut present final yr, it was superb to see idol followers and lolitas alike come collectively to bop and help this type of collaboration. Collectively, the band provides the stage environment of a traditional European portray with a j-rock twist, with fluttering ribbons, flowers, and guitars. Strawberry Quartz adjustments its lineup yearly, with new members introduced beginning August 1st. With every unit, the band’s story and music will evolve.

Strawberry Quartz performances, 2023.

Aisya has additionally been concerned within the scene for a very long time, first of their teenagers after which returning a decade later. With him, Aisya brings fascinating insights between the 2 totally different generations he bridges. In my analysis, I’ve recognized 4 generations within the 40-year historical past of lolita. In Aisya’s first interval of participation, he was a part of the top of technology #2 within the early 2000s. At the moment, lolitas and bangyas (visible kei followers) would often meet on the Jingu-mae Bridge, though this apply fell into disuse as a result of harassment from vacationers. As a versatile type of expression, lolita was particularly particular for cis ladies, nevertheless it was additionally open to practitioners of all genders. Goth manufacturers, equivalent to Excentrique, have an extended reminiscence of lolita’s gender-crossing potential. And as many practitioners of the visible kei type internationally will know, Mana of the visible kei band Malice Mizer was a significant influential determine as a result of his look in Lolita and the founding of the designer label Moite me Moite.

Lately, Aisya has revisited the latest technology #4 and provides fascinating insights into how the tradition has shifted. Like many subcultures seen internationally, different communities and scenes in Tokyo present a secure house for folks to specific themselves, no matter their id. I’ve personally noticed a vibrant gender non-conforming presence at main occasions like Gothic and Lolita Market, with folks of all physique varieties, sexualities, and talents coming collectively to share their curiosity in handmade lolita style. On the identical time, some components of the scene have determined to make their areas cis ladies solely. As totally different subgroups disperse and are available collectively, Aisya hopes to create an area that’s extra inclusive.

Are you able to introduce your self?

My identify is Aisya and I’m the editor of a lolita style journal known as Lapin Labyrinthe. I’ve been lively within the lolita neighborhood for some time, or quite, I like the garments and put on them usually. I additionally play music.

Aisya in a red lolita dress with a cap and white fringes
Aisya wears BABY the STARS SHINE BRIGHT in her signature shade, pink.

How did you get into lolita style?

I initially preferred Mana-sama by MALICE Mizer and it began out as a gothic lolita. It was highly regarded on the time, however ultimately the motion went downhill. I feel it was hottest within the early 2000s or so, across the time that the Gothic Lolita Bible got here out. After that time it progressively went downhill and I had a ten yr break. Visible kei disappeared and I considered beginning a rock band and I made a decision I needed to do one thing I liked. So I got here again to lolita about 3 years in the past. I discovered that a number of the nice designers had been gone. Particularly the darkish garments of visible kei had been gone.

Why did you resolve to begin Strawberry Quartz?

The Harajuku style that I as soon as knew was very carefully linked to bands and artists. I really feel that style may be very carefully linked to music. It’s like an id. There’s a little bit of rock and roll in it. There’s a way of insurrection, of wanting to specific your self towards those that have been denied one thing. I really feel that Japan continues to be a male-dominated society. There are conditions the place ladies are at an obstacle, and it will be higher if we had been nicer to them. I believed that the ability that’s distinctive to ladies is much like that of a band member. I needed to convey this power to life by means of Strawberry Quartz. I felt that as a result of this underground music was in decline, this could possibly be one of many causes for the decline of other style. After assembly extra gothic lolitas, I believed that I might assist the neighborhood develop by merging music and style once more. I needed to mix my love for immersive style with my love for music.

Strawberry Quartz in matching long sleeve lolita dresses
Members of the Strawberry Quartz band, 2023.

Are you able to inform us concerning the relationship between lolita and your gender id?

I establish as a person, similar to Mana-sama, however in my thoughts, each the views of ladies and men are mixed. It’s utterly totally different from eager to be a lady. I’m not excellent at coping with males and I often hang around with ladies. When Mana-sama joined MALICE MIZER as a brand new singer, he/she had stunning blue hair with two ponytails. I actually preferred that look as a teen. I learn the Gothic and Lolita Bible, learn Mitsukazu’s manga, darkened the room, lit candles, and many others. It feels a bit like I used to be a chūnibyō (laughs) (“eighth grader syndrome”; a teen who needs to face out).

What’s your view on Lolita?

Lolita’s look is essential, nevertheless it’s additionally about emotions. I wish to look cute throughout, not simply in look, but additionally in a method that brings me nearer to my objectives. For instance, I like romantic dramas and I feel it is cute when a lady falls in love with a person and has a crush on him. It provides me a little bit of a “kyun!” feeling. I discover Lolita cute in the same method. I wish to look cute once I put on it too! In the identical method, I discover it cute to see a woman making an attempt her greatest to be cute.

Within the lolita world, I feel there are two varieties of folks: fanatics who need it to remain the identical, and people who wish to make it extra thrilling. I feel the imaginative and prescient of fanatics is much less free than it was. In Japan, such a folks don’t wish to permit males and are a bit afraid of them. I feel this has one thing to do with the social construction of society. There are others who’re enthusiastic about making lolita extra enjoyable. I wish to make it extra enjoyable, so that individuals can get pleasure from it extra, with out worrying about the right way to put on it. You’ll be able to gown it up or down, or combine it with punk.

I needed to create an area for myself to put on lolita, so I began doing issues like tea events and performances. I actually needed to be in a lolita band and specific how I felt and why I wore lolita. I questioned if I used to be making an attempt to create issues that different lolitas would profit from, that possibly they’d settle for that it is okay for males to put on it too.

I do not wish to be a job mannequin, however I would like folks to take a look at their perspective and perceive that I could be a lolita as a person. There are issues I can do to assist ladies. I do not wish to be a lady, however I respect them and I wish to look cute too.

Aisya in his red dress with his guitar
Aisha, 2023

Are you able to inform us one thing about Lapin Labyrinthe?

I believed it will be good to have a paper e book because the lolita magazines are over. Publishing them takes lots of people and cash, however I do the whole lot myself. It is laborious work. I do 120 pages per difficulty and I am going to all of the shoots and recruit the fashions.

Aisya in red, sitting with his guitar
Aisha, 2023

This yr, BABY the STARS SHINE BRIGHT invited gender non-conforming folks to stroll of their New York Vogue Week runway present. Do you have got any feedback on your followers?

That is the primary time I’ve heard of BABY utilizing a cross-gender mannequin! I do know Takuma Tani has modeled for magazines in Japan prior to now, so I wasn’t too shocked… I feel followers outdoors of Japan have a extra welcoming perspective in the direction of variety, so it is simpler for manufacturers to advertise their merchandise there that method.

Do you have got any recommendation for followers overseas who wish to expertise lolita style?

If abroad guests wish to come to Japan and benefit from the world of lolita, they need to go to Gothic and Lolita Market. There are such a lot of lolitas there, it is superb!

Rei Saionji is a Japanese creator and marketing consultant, working with Japanese communities and artists to revive curiosity in conventional arts. She is at the moment co-director of the World Kawaii Affiliation, which goals to attach worldwide audiences with Japanese cute creatives and culturally important artwork, tradition, and design. In 2010-2014, she ran a Gothic and Lolita tearoom in Harajuku known as Tetragrammaton together with her enterprise companion, Tomoe Hojo, to offer a neighborhood house for native artists and practitioners.